Quady North; at Home in the State of Jefferson

In October of 1941, the mayor of tiny Port Orford, Oregon, announced a plan to secede from the state and join several surrounding counties in southern Oregon and northern California to create the 51st state, the State of Jefferson.  Though the announcement was made more in an effort to draw attention to the lack of infrastructure and support from the state's capitals than it was a serious effort to create a new seat of government, that sense of independence and self reliance has lived on in Oregon's southern reaches.

Today's State of Jefferson ethic can also be applied to the serious wine producing region seeking to make a name for itself independent from Oregon's signature wine in the world-renowned Willamette Valley.  For Herb Quady, it was that spirit of independence and the opportunity to be a part of something in the making that drew him to the Rogue and Applegate Valley region.


"In coming to Southern Oregon, I was hoping to be an integral part of an emerging winegrowing region. I thought it would be fun to be one of the people who could do some of the big work, and help to discover what would really succeed in the region." In moving to Oregon, Herb Quady left behind a post as the Associate Winemaker of the very successful and, at the time, very large, Bonny Doon Vineyards in California.

California had already been established as the birthplace of serious American fine wine.  Herb described the feeling in the industry there as a bit "claustrophobic" with so much having already become so done and all of the big questions had more or less been solved.  In the Oregon's State of Jefferson, Herb found an opportunity to be a part of the discovery. An added bonus was the community of winemakers willing to take chances and display some of that "rogue" mentality within the Rogue Valley.

For Herb, Southern Oregon is special in that it's offering the American wine conversation a new chapter for wine: "big reds" (read: not Pinot Noir).  "We have the opportunity to blaze a kind of third way for red wine, different from that of California and Washington. This way would emphasize balance and grace."  This third path for reds highlights lower alcohols and a focus on the "spicy and savory" character of the varietals rather than an emphasis on making a fruit forward wine.

These wines are made possible by the difference in the climate and topography that makes up this dynamic Southern Oregon wine region.  Elevation ranges from 700 to 6,600 feet and the temperatures tend to be more similar to Walla Walla than to the Willamette Valley.  This means that Southern Oregon can produce a variety of wines that suit a variety of micro-climates.  Cool and warm varietals are doing well, and for Herb Rhone varietals is where he's focused his label's effort, save for his Cabernet Franc which is developing a cult like following.

Herb has found that variability to be one of southern Oregon's greatest assets.  He's produced for his label and, as the winemaker at Troon Vineyard, for Troon's Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Vermentino and Riesling, among others. Herb also sees other producers crafting some excellent wines, citing the white Rhone style wines of Cowhorn as well as the Petit Sirahs of both Folin Cellars and Spangler Vineyards.

I sampled several of the Quady North wines and have included tasting notes from a few favorites for brevity's sake.  The labels are visually fresh and eye-catching, in the style of old school "sailor tattoos" and they're designed by Herb's wife Meloney.  Herb says that on occasion someone will remark that the "labels are great, and the wine is good too."  Which is okay by him.

Across the board you notice the lower alcohol levels as well elegance, the wines don't come out and thump you over the head. Instead you've got refined reds that emphasize minerality and complexity and white wines, and a rose that bring acidity and zing to the palate.

We were crazy about the Rosé from Quady North and it was our Friday Find on April 20th and you can find our thoughts on it here.

The 2011 Pistoleta is a blend of Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne. The wine is pale golden and that brightness carries over to the aromatics with plum blossom and apricot skin. The acidity and fruit forward palate makes this wine a fantastic zesty white with loads of citrus and stone fruit for pairing with food as well as enjoying on it's own with some Summer weather on the porch. $19

2008 4-2, A Syrah blended from 5 different vineyard sites and named for the Quady's daughter's favorite blend of water and fruit juice. The 4-2,A is a nod to Herb's stylistic preference for Northern Rhone Syrah. Aromas of dried figs, blackberry reduction, all with dust and herbal  notes. Flavors of deep black fruits, fennel and chicory root. $25

2008 Cabernet Franc Simply put this is an outstanding wine. With this wine Herb is hoping to bridge the gap between those who love the often forgotten "third wheel" of the Bordeaux varietals and those who often eschew it for it's "green peppper" or "vegetal" descriptors.   Aromatics of clove, and dusty blueberry.  The palate is blue fruits, with loads of dusty earth and spice flavors.  The kicker at the end for me is a touch of eucalyptus or mint. $35 (and worth every penny)

These wines were provided as samples by the winery.

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Top Five Discoveries of 2011; The Anthem Looks Back

There are somewhere in the ballpark of 700 wineries in Washington state these days and Oregon is creeping up on 400. That adds up to a lot of opportunity for discovery. With such great variety there's so much wine to discover year in and year out and 2011 was full of gems.

As the days, weeks and months ticked by, we here at the Anthem were able to taste a lot of wines; wines from friends, wines we bought, wines we sampled at events, wines we received to write about and wines we shared over dinner, barrel samples of wine, aged wine and wine just pressed off the skins. That's a lot of wine.

At the Anthem we try to bring you undiscovered gems from the Great Northwest and along the way we often find that we ourselves are incredibly pleased with the discoveries. This year was no different, (actually maybe it was, as this was our first year in operation) and so we give to you our Top Five Discoveries of 2011.

5: A Value Wine that Transcends Time

The Bookmark NV1 from J. Bookwalter Wine Company was our Friday Find on October 21st but it stood out among the value wines we featured this year for a number of reasons. First and foremost, its price was astounding. Though the wine claims to retail around $15, I've yet to see it for more than $10. The NV (or non-vintage) designation is reallly what makes this blend special and for the $10 pricepoint, Bookwalter is using wines from some very nice barrels. The NV1 release contains wine as old as 2005 and is mostly comprised of the 2008 vintage. This was easily our top Friday Find of the 2011 year and from the readers I heard from who bought several bottles, you agreed. (Our tasting notes here.)

4: Doom & Gloom Don't Live Here

You can accuse us of being Northwest wine cheerleaders, "Ready? Okay!" and we'd be fine with that but the "sky is falling" approach that has been taken with really the last two Willamette Valley vintages is way over the top. Willamette Valley insider Jenny Mosbacher ran down the inside dirt for us on 2011 in this brilliant post. A couple of know-it-alls start talking smack and the next thing you know the whole crop has gone to pot. Fact is, if you talk to winemakers in the Valley about 2011 a lot of them are very excited, and exhausted, but they feel the vintage holds substantial promise. As further proof I found myself completely blown away barrel sampling the 2010 offerings from the Valley at the Salud Cuvee Auction. If there was a discovery to be made there it was that this vintage is "just right" as I think back on all the hand wringing that happened a year ago (cue the birds). Oh, and take my word for it, when it comes to market buy as much 2010 Antica Terra Pinot Noir as you can get your grubby little hands on.

3: Youth is Served

While it's very obvious to anyone who looks around that the wine scene remains steeped in old people what with their fancy cars and money; there's a movement afoot. The thing about being old is eventually you stop being old and start being dead. Before that happens you stop working as well, you may need help across the street with the groceries, and a reminder about whether or not you've already seen that movie. We've seen a youth movement here in our own wine region that's refreshing. Young winemakers in Oregon and Washington are showing a deep respect for the traditions of wine while doing it their own way. Young winemakers to watch include Brian Rudin of Walla Walla's Cadaretta, Melissa Burr of Dundee's Stoller Vineyards, Chip McLaughlin of Vinyl Wines and from Southern Oregon, Chris Jiron of God King Slave Wines.

2: Oh Canada

I love Canada for a lot of reasons, chief among them hockey, syrup and talking funny but if you're a wine lover that's ever needed a reason to love Canada, I give you Joie Farm winery. They make quite simply the best aromatic white wines I think I've ever had and I would say the best the new world has to offer. The growing, yet somewhat mysterious, Canadian wine industry is still shooting out all manner of varietals but they are indeed a cold climate region, perhaps more than anywhere in the world. The varietal selection and wine making techniques of Joie Farm's Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn are aimed at making the most of what they're given in BC's cool Okanagan Valley. There's a definite homage paid to old world white wines of the alpine regions of France and Italy and if you're one of those wine drinkers who claims to love white wines and you haven't had the wines of Joie Farm, what's holding you up?

1: My Wine of the Year

On occasion there are wines that stick with you and every once in awhile you say "Whoa." As it turns out my whoa wine of 2011 was actually released late in 2010, but the fact of the matter is, I drank it in 2011. The 2008 Les Collines Syrah from Walla Walla's Kerloo Cellars was my wine of the year. It was absolutely outstanding. The Syrah from Les Collines in 2008 was special, I had another Les Collines gem from Forgeron Cellars that was also memorable. The vineyard is part of the Amavi estate holdings and with its reputation for excellence, it has become one of Washington's most sought after sources for Syrah. The Kerloo Syrah delivers earthen and herbal aromatics and an opulent potpourri of dried rose petals and violets, delivering on both elegance in the aromatics and substantive complexity on the palate. A hint of orange zest has you wondering if there was any cofermented Viognier but this is 100% Syrah. The herbal elements that are a signature of Les Collines appear in the palate along with layers of earth, blue fruits and toasted hazelnuts. This wine is all gone, but the 2009s are not, though they will be soon. If you've not yet discovered Kerloo - hustle.

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